Sweltering in Dushanbe

We were crapping ourselves at the check in, but in the end Turkish Airlines didn't charge us for the 10kg excess baggage we had. They were more upset that I had packed tyres, pedals and a prop stand (looks very like a machine gun) in our hand luggage - it caused quite a stir when that lot flashed up on their scanner. Anyway we arrived safely in Dushanbe and it only took two hours to negociate immigration.

We are in a home stay with a Tajik family, sleeping on matteresses on the floor. They are very friendly and speak about as much English as we speak Russian.

The contrast between Istanbul and Dushanbe couldn't be more marked. Rush hour in Dushanbe is about three cars going down the main street (and two of them get pulled over by the traffic police). The streets here are palatially wide and lined with shady plain trees. The shade is essential as the mid temperature is around 40 degrees (god knows how we are going to pedal in that).

We have been sheperded round Dushanbe by a young english student called Mahbubulo who has done a great job of helping us get the supplies we need.

One of the most enchanting things about the Tajiks (and there are quite a few) is the way they put one hand on their heart when they say "hello" or "thank you".

On Sunday we are setting off for the 250km to Pamirs.